Fancy Yarns
Udo Schweizer’s Texturing Pages
We can observe worldwide that production of standard textured yarns has become highly competitive. Texturing machines seem to have reached in nearly all countries speed levels, which cannot be raised without substantial investment. Companies are competing for a market, which is often unwilling to pay for the real production cost of the yarns. This has meant for all participants in the texturing industry much lower profits and even losses. The industry is under severe pressure to innovate by offering yarns with new features. Apart from chemical or spinning technology related changes there are also ways to modify the looks of yarns on the texturing machine. These yarns are often referred to as fancy yarns. |
Yarns, which can be produced without or with some small modifications of an existing texturing machine
Thick and Thin, high bulk-no bulk
Yarn Character: Alternate areas of high bulk and tightly twisted yarn portions.
Production Machine: Standard single heater or preferably double heater false twist texturing machine
Setting Parameters: Lower draw ratio, high primary heater temperature, high D/Y, high secondary heater temperature
End Use: Knitted fabrics, outerwear, fabrics are normally printed
Linen character
Yarn Character: A tightly twisted yarn with alternate twist.
Production Machine: Standard single heater or preferably double heater false twist texturing machine
Setting Parameters: Lower draw ratio, very high primary heater temperature at fusing point, high D/Y, high secondary heater temperature
End Use: Woven fabrics or knitted fabrics, very low cover factor, fabrics are normally piece dyed
High bulk
Yarn Character: A two-ply yarn with a higher cover factor
Production Machine: Standard single heater or double heater false twist texturing machine
Setting Parameters: Standard draw ratio, temperature and D/Y. One end with high, one end with lower number of friction disks. Combine ends behind friction unit and set yarns allowing enough overfeed.
End Use: Woven fabrics or knitted fabrics, higher bulk and cover factor
Using Differential shrinkage yarns
Yarn Character: A two-ply yarn with a higher cover factor and the ability to make very soft fabrics
Production Machine: Standard single heater or double heater false twist texturing machine
Setting Parameters: No primary/secondary heat, cooling plate or friction unit; select two FDY yarns with a difference in shrinkage, ply and tangle Wind flat yarn, bulk develops in dyeing and finishing
End Use: Woven fabrics, high bulk and cover factor, very soft touch
Color combination yarns
Yarn Character: A two-ply yarn with tone in tone color difference
Production Machine: Standard single heater or double heater false twist texturing machine
Setting Parameters: Use standard texturing conditions, select one POY and one FDY yarn and texture together on same spindle. The resulting yarn will have a two tone effect
Setting Parameters: Use standard texturing conditions. Let one of the yarns touch the primary heater only partially, ply and entangle both yarns. The resulting yarn will have a two tone and differential shrinkage effect.
Setting Parameters: Use standard texturing conditions, select one POY and one FDY, tangle the yarn and then texture together on same spindle. The resulting yarn will have a two tone effect, with light and dark flashes. The type of tangle jet will influence the looks of the final yarn.
End Use: Woven fabrics
Cross dyeing effect yarns
Yarn Character: A two-ply yarn with a distinctive color difference
Production Machine: Standard single heater or double heater false twist texturing machine
Setting Parameters: Use standard texturing conditions, select two yarns from which you can expect color differentiation, such as normal and cationic dyeing yarn, or nylon and polyester, texture individually and then ply. The resulting yarn will have a two tone effect.
End Use: Woven and knitted fabrics
Yarns, which can be produced with a modified texturing machine, such as additional shafts, hot pins, hot plates, air texturing jets and tangle jets
- Thick and Thin, dye effect
- Linen character
- High bulk and staple yarn character
- Differential shrinkage yarns
- Color combination yarns
- Cross dyeing effect yarns
- Yarns with light and dark streaks
- Yarns with Elastane
Some of these yarns have been described in the literature. But normally companies do not discuss or disclose openly their own efforts to compete in the market.
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